How to make a polo tab?

The polo placket is a buttoning technique that allows a neckline to be partially opened at the center front. It is found on polo shirts, but also on some tops and dresses. It consists of two identical strips of fabric and can be adjusted to the desired width and length. Follow this step-by-step guide to create a polo placket with precision.

How to prepare the pattern?

• Trace the location of the leg

On the front neckline, mark the future location of the placket by drawing a vertical center line and defining the height of the opening. Then connect these marks with a perpendicular line. At the bottom of the line, form a small triangle 1 cm high.

• Cut out the fabric pieces

Along the grain, cut two strips of fabric to the following dimensions:

• Length = Opening height + seam allowances
• Width = (2 × seam allowance) + desired final width

Example :

• Length : 12 cm + 2 cm = 14 cm
• Width : (2.5 cm × 2) + 2 cm = 7 cm

How to position the strips?

• Iron-on the reverse side of the fabric

Apply a piece of interfacing slightly larger than the width of the placket to the wrong side of the front of the garment. It should cover the traced triangle.

• Reinforce the fabric strips

On the reverse side of the two cut strips, heat-seal only the half corresponding to the inside of the flap.

• Pin and position the strips

Place the two strips right sides together on the front of the garment, perfectly aligning the center lines and the heat-sealed areas at the center front. Pin the edges to stabilize the assembly.

How to sew and open the flap?

• Make the first seam

Stitch the strips along the traced lines, using a 2.5mm straight stitch. The seams should end at exactly the same point at the bottom of the future placket. Then iron to flatten them.

Open the slot and prepare the finishes

• Cut along the center line to the bottom of the slit.
• Then cut the sides of the triangle up to the last stitch, without going over.
• Trim the margins to about 0.7 to 1 cm.

Iron to properly structure the placket

Using an iron, open the seam allowances for a clean fold. Also form the fold of the strips and iron carefully.

How to form and fix the polo placket

• Fold and position the strips

Fold the strips towards the wrong side of the garment, ironing them well. Make sure the width of the strips is uniform across the entire length of the placket.

• Fix the top of the leg

If the neckline ends in a collar, fold the strips, right sides together at the previous fold. Stitch at the top of each strip, from the fold to halfway down the placket. Start and end with a backstitch. Trim the seam allowance by 5mm and notch the end of the seam allowance.

• Turn over and assemble the layers

Turn the top of the placket right side to wrong side to create a clean corner, then press. Then sew the seam allowance of the first strip, then repeat for the second.

Overlay and Finalize the Paw

• Check alignment and topstitch

Overlap the strips to check that they are aligned correctly and adjust if necessary. Then topstitch 2 mm from the edge to keep the edges filled and give a finished look. Baste first if you think it is necessary.

• Fold and secure the bottom triangle

Fold the small triangle formed at the bottom of the slit right sides together, then topstitch to hold everything in place.

• Stitch and reinforce the thicknesses

Make a final seam at the fold of the triangle, using a straight stitch and firmly securing all the layers together.

• Final ironing and finishing touches

Give the placket a final ironing to flatten it and give it a clean finish. You can then continue assembling the garment.

Conclusion

The polo placket is a stylish and practical finishing touch that adds a neat touch to your garments. By following these steps, you'll achieve a clean and functional opening, ideal for polo shirts, shirts, and tops that require partial buttoning. With proper ironing and precise sewing, your polo placket will be perfectly finished!