What is pattern making?

In the vast world of sewing, pattern making is a fundamental skill that opens the doors to endless creation. But what exactly is pattern making, and why is it so essential for tailors and seamstresses? In this article, we will delve into the very definition of pattern making!

What is pattern making in sewing? Definition, method, and techniques

In the rich and creative realm of sewing, pattern making is a central skill in the creation process. More than just a simple outline, it involves turning an idea into a tangible prototype by making an accurate pattern based on body measurements. Pattern making plays a vital role in the history of sewing and continues to evolve with modern tools and new practices. It allows the creation of unique garments, tailored and adapted to each figure, whether for a dress, skirt, top, collar, or sleeve.

Definition of pattern making in sewing

Pattern making is the process of creating a pattern from precise measurements. This pattern is the base on which the different pieces of the garment will be cut. The pattern can be made by hand or with the help of digital pattern making software. One should not confuse pattern and pattern making: the pattern is the physical template made of paper or cardboard, while pattern making is the set of steps necessary to create this model. This process includes taking measurements, drawing, adjustments, grading, and the addition or omission of seam allowances.

A bit of history: pattern making through the centuries

Pattern making is part of an ancient tradition, dating back to the high tailoring of the 19th century. Initially used by designers in fashion houses, it later spread to amateurs through the publication of specialized books. In France, pattern making took on a cultural dimension, with secular, sporting, or religious groups such as the Saint community or the gymnastics and sports federation of the patronages. Today, pattern making is recognized as a discipline in its own right, blending art, technique, culture, and professional software.

How to create a pattern?

To create a pattern, one must first take body measurements: bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, torso height, bust dart, center back. From these data, one can make a basic toile or a basic bodice, depending on the chosen method. Paper pattern making, or flat cutting, involves drawing the garment lines on paper or cardboard. Simple tools such as a ruler, pencil, scissors, and sometimes a template are used. Draping, on the other hand, is a more intuitive technique that involves working directly on a dress form by shaping the fabric to fit the body's shapes. The resulting pattern is then transferred onto paper. It is also possible to use digital pattern making software to create a file ready to be printed or sent to a cutting service.

Why is pattern making important?

Pattern making allows the design of a garment faithful to the imagined model while respecting morphological constraints. It ensures the fitting of the prototype, the proper distribution of volumes, and the respect of body proportions. It is also the stage that allows checking seam allowances, structuring the garment, and planning assembly elements. In high tailoring as well as ready-to-wear or home sewing, pattern making is an essential skill. It also allows resizing a pattern, adapting a model, adding ease, or reworking an existing shape.

What are the types of pattern making?

Pattern making can take several forms depending on the context and need. Garment pattern making corresponds to artisanal or professional sewing. Industrial pattern making is used for mass production, with specific tools. Secular, cultural, or sporting pattern making also refers to educational practices linked to French social and associative history. Digital pattern making refers to creating patterns using a computer. The sewing pattern, meanwhile, refers to the printed or drawn model used to cut the fabric.

How to adjust a pattern?

Adjusting a pattern means adapting a model to a specific figure. This may involve modifying the waist circumference, bust circumference, torso height, or the position of darts. Sometimes it is necessary to add a seam allowance, enlarge a part, or redraw a contour. The adjustment can be done directly on paper or with the help of a dress form, or by creating a test toile. Professional designers often use precise grading techniques to adapt the same pattern to several sizes or work from a basic pattern to create several variations.

What tools are needed for pattern making?

Pattern making requires basic equipment that every designer or sewing enthusiast should have. Kraft paper or specific pattern paper, cardboard for templates, a well-sharpened pencil, scissors suitable for cutting paper, a ruler, a square, hip or arm curves, pins, a dress form, and sometimes a cutting board are used. For digital projects, it is possible to use pattern making software on a computer, allowing saving patterns as files, easily modifying elements, and printing them at the desired size.

How to read a sewing pattern?

Reading a sewing pattern requires understanding the marks indicated on each piece. One must know how to identify the straight grain, seam allowances, cutting lines, notches, darts, and fold instructions. Some patterns also include color codes, sewing symbols, and pre-included allowances. The goal is to quickly understand how to cut the pieces from the fabric, in which direction, and how to assemble them afterward. Learning to read a pattern is an essential skill for any sewing enthusiast or professional.

Pattern making in summary:

Pattern making is a key activity in the fashion field, at the heart of creating custom garments or series collections. This method allows transforming an idea into a concrete model, with crucial importance in the success of a project. Whether it is a first trial or a new collection, pattern making adapts to each brand, to each place, whether professional or for leisure. Each piece, from the back to the large pocket, has its precise function and specific handling. Proposing a model requires rigor and creativity, especially in design. This work can be done on one’s own base or from an existing example. There are many tips to save time, and each pattern holds a unique place in the creation process.