How to Sew a Stand Collar?

The stand collar is a key element of shirts and provides an elegant and structured finish. It consists of several separate pieces, including a collar drop and a collar stand, which are assembled to form a harmonious and rigid whole. This detailed guide will take you step by step to successfully create a stand collar with precision.

What parts are needed for a stand collar?

To make a shirt collar with a stand, you will need the following items:

• A collar drop (cut twice: above and below).
• A collar stand (cut twice: inside and outside).
• A front and a back of a shirt , to be joined at the shoulders.
• A button placket , depending on the model chosen.
• Iron-on interfacing to reinforce certain parts of the collar.

How to prepare and assemble the collar drop?

Prepare the collar drop pieces

• Iron-on the collar drop to the piece underneath as well as the inner collar stand to give them more rigidity.

• Pin the two collar pieces, right sides together, and assemble them using the classic method.

• Trim the seam allowances to about 5mm and notch the corners for a clean finish.

Turn over and topstitch the collar drop

• Turn the collar right side out and gently roll the seam between your fingers to flatten it. The underside of the collar should remain invisible.
• Topstitch at the edge for drape to stabilize the shape of the collar
• Pre-shape the future seam allowance at the bottom of the inner collar stand with an iron.
  

How to assemble the drop and the collar stand?

Position and fix the collar stand

• Pin the collar stands, right sides together, inserting the drop between the two pieces.
  
• Assemble the inner collar stand (heat-sealed part) facing you and sew, starting and ending with a backstitch at the pre-formed fold (seam allowance).
  
• Check that the ends of the drop are symmetrical before continuing. If they are not, adjust by slightly undoing the seam.

Turn over and reinforce the collar stand

• Trim the seam allowance and notch the curves to avoid any excess thickness.
  
• Turn the collar stand right side out and shape it with an iron.
  

• Topstitch 2 mm from the edge to secure the whole thing and ensure it holds up well over time.

How to mount the collar on the shirt?

Position the collar stand on the neckline

• Pin the outer collar stand to the neckline, right sides together, overlapping the mounting notches.

• Machine stitch with a 2.5 straight stitch starting at the clamping tab.

• Trim the seam allowance and notch the curves for greater flexibility.

Fix and finalize the collar stand

• Lay the seam allowance against the inside of the outer collar stand and press.

• Adjust the seam allowances at the buttonholes to avoid unsightly excess thickness.

How to ensure a clean and durable finish?

Fixing the inner collar stand

• Fold the inside collar stand down and pin carefully for perfect alignment.

• Iron to shape the whole thing and check that the collar is even.
• Secure the inside collar stand with a hand slip stitch for a discreet finish.

Final touches and final surprise

• Add a topstitch at the collar stand to ensure a better fit and a clean finish.
• Start and finish this topstitching at the ends of the collar for a seamless finish.
• Do a final ironing to permanently structure the collar.

CONCLUSION

Creating a stand collar requires precision and careful preparation of the pieces. By following these steps carefully, you'll achieve a structured, aesthetically pleasing collar that blends seamlessly into your shirt. With proper ironing and careful topstitching, your collar will retain its shape and elegance over time!