Overlock stitches: everything you need to know to perfect your fabric finishes

Introduction

Overlock stitches: if you want to achieve impeccable fabric finishes and give a professional look to your creations, understanding overlock techniques is essential. Used both with an overlocker and with a sewing machine overlocker, overlock stitches allow you to assemble, overcast, and reinforce fabric edges in a single quick and efficient operation.

In this article, we will answer all your questions about overlock stitches: what an overlock stitch is, the different types available, which machine to use to succeed in your seams, how to choose the right stitch according to the fabric, and above all, which tips to apply to achieve results worthy of a professional seam. You will also find a bonus with our practical advice as well as a complete FAQ to solve your common problems.

Ready to master the art of the overlock stitch and enhance your sewing projects? Follow the guide!

What is an overlock stitch and what is it for?

To start well, it is essential to understand what an overlock stitch is. Used both in professional sewing and in crafts, the overlock stitch allows assembling and overcasting fabrics in one operation. Let's discover why it has become indispensable for achieving neat fabric finishes.

An overlock stitch is a seam forming loops around the edge of the fabric. Its main function is twofold: to join two pieces of fabric securely while preventing fraying. Unlike a classic straight seam, the overlock stitch protects the fabric, offers it better elasticity, and gives a clean and neat finish, both inside and outside the garment.
It is notably used for making stretch garments (jersey, lycra) but also for fine or delicate fabrics.

What types of overlock stitches exist?

There are several types of overlock stitches, each with its particularities and preferred use. The choice of stitch depends on the fabric used and the type of seam desired. We will review the main types to help you make the best choice.

The different types of overlock stitches are distinguished by the number of threads used, their final appearance, and their level of strength. Here are the main variants:

• 3-thread stitch: ideal for overcasting and assembling light to medium fabrics.
• 4-thread stitch: perfect for stretch fabrics, offering a strong assembly with some elasticity.
• Rolled hem stitch: fine and decorative finish on very light fabrics like muslin or organdy.
• Flatlock stitch: visible flat seam, ideal for sportswear or decorative effects.

Quick summary :

• 3-thread stitch: simple finish, flexible seam
• 4-thread stitch: reinforced finish, stretch seam
• Rolled hem stitch: light, decorative hems
• Flatlock stitch: decorative, reversible seam

Which machine to use to make an overlock stitch?

Choosing the right machine is crucial to obtain a quality overlock stitch. Are you hesitating between buying an overlocker or using a sewing machine overlocker? Here is what you need to know.

An overlocker is designed exclusively for overlock sewing. It generally uses 3 to 5 threads, offers a knife to cut fabric edges, and ensures a professional finish. A classic sewing machine, on the other hand, can imitate the overlock stitch thanks to certain settings and specific presser feet.

IMAGE (Comparative photo between sewing with a regular machine and overlock sewing)

How to choose the right overlock stitch according to the fabric?

To get a perfectly adapted overlock stitch, it is essential to consider the fabric being worked on. The choice of stitch directly influences the quality of the seam and the durability of the garment.

Here are some concrete examples to help you choose your stitch well:

• Light fabrics (voile, muslin): rolled hem stitch
• Medium fabrics (cotton, poplin): 3-thread stitch
• Stretch fabrics (jersey, lycra): 4-thread stitch
• Thick fabrics (denim, velvet): reinforced stitch with 4 threads

Practical advice :

• Use a differential on the serger for stretch fabrics
• Adjust the overlock width according to the fabric thickness

Bonus for overlock stitches: tips and mistakes to avoid

To perfect your overlock stitch, a few simple tips can make all the difference. Conversely, some mistakes are common among beginners.

Tips :

• Test your settings on a fabric scrap
• Replace your needles regularly
• Use foam thread for a softer overlock on stretch fabrics

Common mistakes :

• Too tight tension causing puckering
• Wrong stitch choice for the fabric
• Forgetting to adjust the knife on thick fabrics

IMAGE (Photo: result of a well-adjusted overlock stitch vs poorly adjusted)

FAQ on overlock stitches

Can you make an overlock stitch with a regular sewing machine?

Yes, some sewing machines have an imitation overlock stitch and a special foot to make seams close to those of an overlocker but without cutting the fabric.

Which overlock stitch is recommended for sewing jersey?

The 4-thread stitch is ideal because it offers strength and elasticity, perfectly suited for stretch fabrics like jersey.

Why does my overlock seam pucker?

This can be caused by incorrect thread tension, fabric that is too thin without a stabilizer, or an improper presser foot pressure setting.

What is the difference between an overlock stitch and an overlock stitch?

It is essentially the same stitch; "overlock" is the English term used to refer to surjet sewing in French.

Should you always use an overlock stitch to join stretch fabrics?

Yes, the overlock stitch is highly recommended to maintain the fabric's elasticity and prevent tears.

Conclusion

Mastering overlock stitches is an essential step to succeed in your professional sewing projects. Whether you use a overlocker or a sewing overlocker machine, understanding the different types of overlock stitches, knowing how to adapt your technique according to the fabric, and avoiding common mistakes will guarantee you impeccable and durable fabric finishes.
Do not hesitate to practice different types of overlock on fabric scraps to improve and develop your expertise. Your passion for sewing deserves finishes worthy of your creations!