Table of contents:
The fly front, located at the center front of your pants or skirt, is the vertical opening that extends from the waistband to the crotch. Usually closed by a zipper or buttons, it is distinguished by the addition of two specific pieces: the shield and the under shield. This complete guide presents, step by step, how to prepare your pieces and sew a fly front with a flawless finish.
1. Preparing the pieces
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Necessary pieces:
- A right front
- A left front
- A shield
- An under shield
- A zipper (12 to 18 cm, depending on your pattern)
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Reinforcement:
Fuse the fly shield and the under shield to reinforce the fly structure.
2. Overlocking and preparing the under fly
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Overlocking:
Before sewing, overlock the center front edges, the waistline contour, and the entire fly. -
Preparing the under fly:
- After fusing interfacing, fold the under fly in half, right sides together.
- Topstitch 1 cm from the lower edge.
- Turn the piece over and overlock the two straight edges together.
3. Assembly and sewing
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Assembling the fronts:
- Sew the left front and right front right sides together, starting from the mark indicated on the pattern down to the bottom of the piece.
- Press the seams open to precisely mark the center front.
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Installing the zipper:
- Pin the zipper pull to the right front (the narrowest side of the fly) right sides together.
- Position the small zipper pull piece just below the waist seam allowance.
- Sew from the top of the zipper tape to the bottom, noting that the zipper is offset into the seam allowance to remain invisible on the right side.
Attaching the under fly:
- Place the under fly right sides together with the right front and sew 1 cm from the edge, thus sandwiching the under fly, right front, and zipper.
- Press on the right side, lay the under fly flat under the zipper, then topstitch 1 mm from the edge of the right front.
Sewing the fly shield:
- Pin the fly shield to the left front, right sides together, and sew 1 cm from the edges.
- Iron by positioning the shield on the outer side of the left front and topstitch the whole (shield, seam allowance, and left front).
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Final assembly:
- Overlap the left front center over the right front center, ensuring the work is flat without wrinkles.
- Turn the work to the wrong side, lift the shield and pin the second zipper tape to the shield without forcing its position.
- Sew the shield with the zipper, moving the under shield to the side.
Basting and reinforcements:
- Open the seams by laying the two fronts flat, then pin the under shield outward to avoid any obstruction during sewing.
- Turn the work over, baste the front centers together, mark and sew the fly seam to highlight its shape.
- Sew a topstitch following the marking or basting thread, then remove the latter.
Final attachment of the under shield:
- Turn the work over so the wrong side of the fabric faces you and reposition the under shield flat, that is, placing it on the shield.
- Pin the under shield to the shield and sew a securing stitch to firmly attach these two pieces.
- For extra strength, add reinforcement stitches on the right side at the topstitching of the fly shield.
4. Tips and tricks for a perfect finish
- Careful ironing: Proper ironing at each step ensures clear markings and professional finishes.
- Precision in assembly: Make sure all pieces are laid flat to avoid wrinkles and achieve even stitching.
- Additional reinforcements: Feel free to add reinforcement stitches at strategic points to ensure the durability of your fly.
Conclusion
By following these detailed steps and our sewing tips, you will be able to sew a perfectly fitted fly for your pants and skirts. This SEO-optimized tutorial will help you master this specific technique and enhance your clothing creations with a flawless finish.
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