How to make a French seam?

English seam is an ideal technique to achieve a clean and sturdy finish, especially on fine and sheer fabrics. It allows enclosing the raw edges within a second seam, thus preventing fraying and ensuring a neat appearance inside the garment. However, this method is not recommended for thick fabrics or curved seams, as it can create too much bulk.

Understanding Seam Allowance Widths

English seam requires a wider seam allowance than the classic seam. Here are the recommendations:

• First seam: Allowance of 3 to 5 mm.
• Second seam: Allowance between 7 and 10 mm.
• Total allowance visible on the wrong side: Between 5 and 10 mm, depending on the project’s needs.
• Stitch used: Straight stitch
• Stitch length: 2 to 2.5
• Securing the seam: Backstitch

Steps to Make an English Seam

How to position the fabrics correctly?

Place the two pieces of fabric wrong sides together. Pin along the raw edges to stabilize the assembly before sewing.

How to make the first seam?

Stitch the first seam line about 5 mm from the edge. Once sewn, press well to flatten the seam allowance.

Open and Press the Seam

Unfold the fabrics and press the seam open. This pressing is important to achieve a neat finish before the second stitching.

Fold the Fabrics and Press

Fold the fabrics right sides together, so as to enclose the seam allowance inside. Press carefully so the fabric lies flat and the edges do not stick out.

How to make the second seam

Pin then sew a second seam line at 7 to 10 mm from the edge. This new seam traps the first and ensures a clean finish on the fabric’s wrong side.

How to finish the Seam?

Press one last time and choose the side to which the seam should lie so it blends harmoniously with your project.

Conclusion

English seam is an excellent method to bring a neat and lasting finish to your creations. Suited to light fabrics, it strengthens seams while making them attractive on both sides. With good pressing and precise execution, you will achieve a flawless result!