How to install an invisible zipper?

The invisible zipper is an essential finishing touch for achieving a garment with clean and discreet seams . It is ideal for dresses, skirts and trousers, as it blends perfectly into the seam without being visible.

In this article, we will discover how to install an invisible zipper with a shape or with a belt.

How to install an invisible zipper with a shape?

The shaping is a piece of fabric used to reinforce and structure the inside of a garment , particularly around the neckline or waist. Installing an invisible zipper on a garment with shaping requires precision to ensure a harmonious finish.

Prepare the garment before installing the zipper?

Before installing the zipper, you must prepare the garment:

• Join the bottom of the shape right sides together with the top of the side of the garment.
• Leave about 5 cm before the end of the seam to insert the zipper.
• Trace the seam allowance marks to correctly position the zipper.
• Make sure the top marks match the pattern values , and place the bottom ones 3 cm above the end of the zipper .

Secure the first side of the zipper

Once the markers have been drawn:

• Join one side of the zipper right sides together with the edge of the fabric.
• Position the stitches of the pull tab in the groove of the presser foot , keeping them open with your fingers.
• Sew as close to the stitches as possible so that the zipper remains invisible once closed.
• Make sure the zipper is sewn 1 cm lower than the end of the first seam .

Ensure perfect alignment

To avoid misalignment between the two sides of the zipper:

• Close the zipper and align it with the folded seam.
• Mark the zipper and fabric at the same height to ensure perfect alignment on both sides.
• Join the second side of the zipper right sides together with the garment.

finish sewing the zipper with the shaper

Once the zipper is in place:

• Trim 5 mm from the edge of the shape to help the fold form.
• Join the shape, the zipper and the seam allowance right sides together .
• Sew 5 mm from the stitches to prevent the shaping from blocking the closure.
• Fold the seam allowance (including the pull tab) inward and finish the unfinished seam.
• Cut off the excess fabric at the corners and turn everything inside out.

How to install an invisible zipper with a belt?

When using an invisible zipper with a belt, the method is slightly different. Make sure the zipper stays aligned with the belt for a flawless finish.

Prepare the seam for a zipper with belt

Before installing the zipper:

• Mark the seams as for shaping.
• Join the two sides of the garment right sides together , removing the zipper allowance.
• Join the bottom of the right side of the waistband right sides together with the top of the sides of the garment .
• Join the top of the right side of the belt right side to the top of the wrong side of the belt right side, leaving 5 cm before the end of the seam .

Sew the zipper onto the garment with the belt

• Join one side of the zipper right sides together with the garment.
• Position the plastic end just below the seam allowance .
• Close the zipper and position it on the folded seam.
• Make two marks on the zipper and fabric : one at the bottom of the waistband and another at a location chosen for alignment.

Finish sewing the zipper with the belt

• Recover 5 mm from the edge of the inner belt to avoid excess thickness.
• Join the inner belt and the zipper right sides together .
• Sew 5mm from the stitches for a clean finish.
• Fold the seam allowance (including the pull tab) inward , then finish the unfinished seam.
• Trim the excess fabric at the corner and turn everything inside out for a clean finish.

What are some tips for a successful invisible zipper?

To achieve a flawless result, here are some essential tips:

• Sew as close to the stitches as possible : place the stitches of the pull tab in the notch of the presser foot and use your fingers to flatten it well.
• Baste before sewing with the machine : this makes it easier to hold the zipper and prevents it from slipping during sewing.
• Check the alignment of the seams : the sides of the zipper must meet the seams of the garment for a harmonious appearance.

Conclusion :

Installing an invisible zipper requires precision and patience , but the result is worth it.

To remember:

• Carefully prepare the garment by drawing precise marks.
• Use the correct presser foot to sew as close as possible to the stitches.
• Align both sides of the zipper perfectly for a symmetrical look.
• Trim excess fabric from the corners to avoid excess thickness.
• Finish the seam neatly with the shaper or waistband for a professional result.

With these techniques, your invisible closures will be perfectly integrated and undetectable once the garment is finished.