Which needle to choose for which fabric?

Quelle aiguille choisir pour quel tissu ? - Verotex

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Tired of skipped stitches, fraying fabrics, or broken needles? The secret to flawless sewing often lies in a crucial but often overlooked detail: the choice of the needle! Wondering which needle for which fabric? Forget the headaches, because this article will transform your way of sewing.

We will explore together the world of machine needles, showing you how each type is designed to tame a specific fabric, from the most delicate silks to the toughest jeans. Get ready to say goodbye to hassles and hello to perfect creations!

The universal needle for versatile sewing

The universal needle adapts to most sewing tasks. Its standard flat shank fits domestic sewing machines and its slightly rounded point passes through fibers without breaking them, ensuring a gentle penetration to avoid damage to the fabric.

It is suitable for woven fabrics like cotton, linen, and some light denims. It can be used to sew synthetic materials like polyester. Each size adjusts to the thickness of the material for regular and smooth sewing.

If you're wondering which needle for which fabric, know that the universal needle is an excellent base for a wide variety of projects. Easily find all types of needles necessary for your sewing project at Verotex.

This table shows the comparison of universal needle sizes (NM) based on fabrics and practical recommendations for optimal sewing.

Needle size (NM)

Type of fabric

Features and recommendations

NM 60-70

Very fine fabrics (batiste, chiffon, crepe, organza, silk, voile)

Preserves delicate fibers, prevents excessive perforations.
Ideal for viscose and lightweight synthetic fabrics.

NM 70-90

Light to medium fabrics (cotton, poplin, taffeta, lace, nylon, muslin, seersucker)

Perfect balance between precision and durability.
Suitable for clothing (shirts, dresses) and light upholstery fabrics.

NM 80-100

Medium to thick fabrics (jacquard, loden, flannel, double-faced, gabardine)

Suitable for projects requiring a
Good penetration without distortion. Recommended for blouses and decorative fabrics.

NM 90-120

Thick and stiff fabrics (sailcloth, canvas, oilcloth, coat fabrics)

Reinforced structure to penetrate
Multiple layers. Ideal for topstitching and multiple seams on dense materials.

NM 100-130

Very thick or layered fabrics (carpets, blankets, work clothes)

Extreme durability for demanding projects.
Provides strong sewing on complex assemblies or sturdy materials.


The slightly rounded tip slides between the fibers without damaging them. In addition, it prevents holes or pulled loops, especially on knitted fabrics. This design allows smooth sewing on cotton, canvas, or poplin.

Prefer a specific needle for very thick, fine, or stretch fabrics, as the universal 80/12 needle wears out after 8 to 10 hours of work. Irregular stitches or broken threads indicate when it’s time to change it.

At Verotex, you will find all types of needles and fabrics for successful sewing. 

Jersey/Stretch needle for stretch fabrics

The Jersey needle has a slightly rounded tip, while theStretch needle features an ultra-rounded tip and a reinforced shaft. Their specific design allows you to sewing without damaging stretch fabrics, sliding between the loops rather than piercing them.

The ballpoint tip gently separates the fibers without piercing them, preserving the material’s elasticity. This technology prevents distortions and skipped stitches. It perfectly suits knit fabrics, ensuring a professional result.

When starting out with stretch fabrics, it is not always obvious which needle to use for which fabric. That’s why it is essential to understand the specifics of each model to avoid sewing mistakes.

The Jersey needle is suitable for fabrics such as:

  • Cotton for lightweight and comfortable fabrics like t-shirts

  • Lycra/Spandex for sportswear and jerseys requiring elasticity

  • Stretch polyester for projects requiring durability and quick drying

  • Ribbed edges for elastic finishes on sweatshirts and sportswear

The Stretch stands out with its shorter eye and a deeper scarf than the Jersey. Choose this needle for very elastic fabrics like lycra and opt for Jersey on classic knits like stretch cotton.

By understanding which needle for which fabric, you will avoid skipped stitches, broken threads, and tears. Likewise, with it, you get regular stitches without snags. A suitable needle reduces friction on the fabric, limiting deformation after washing or stretching.

The Denim/Jeans needle for thick materials

TheDenim/Jeans needle features a reinforced shaft and a very sharp point, and its metal structure resists high pressures. It passes through tight fabrics without deviation, limiting breakage even on demanding thicknesses.

This type of needle tackles denim, upholstery fabrics, or canvas bags without faltering. Its robust design withstands repeated friction and it maintains a regular stitch on dense materials without damaging the machine.

When working with such varied materials, it is essential to know which needle for which fabric, to avoid common issues like skipped stitches or needle breakage.

Several fabric thicknesses find their ideal match with this needle. Besides denim, it applies to corduroy, oilcloth, heavy gabardine, or faux leather, adapting its strength to each challenge.

Sizes 90, 100, and 110 cover most needs. The 90 handles light denims, the 100 suits thick fabrics, the 110 is ideal for complex layering.

Moreover, the 90 glides through denim shirts, the 100 holds jackets and pants, the 110 handles heavy-duty work. Each size meets a level of requirement precise finish.

The Denim/Jeans needle excels in topstitching that requires passing through multiple layers. Its strong steel supports reinforced seams without deviation, ensuring a regular thread even on critical areas.

The leather needle for non-woven materials

The sharp tip of the leather needle pierces dense materials without damaging them. It is designed for genuine leather and faux leathers. Its specific shape prevents fiber breakage, preserving the material's integrity while facilitating smooth penetration.

This type of needle is suitable for thick leather as well as suede or soft faux leather. However, it unsuitable for woven or knitted fabrics, which it could cut. Its rigidity and hardened steel resist friction without deviation.

When starting out in leather goods, it is essential to understand which needle for which fabric, in order to choose the right tool and avoid damaging sensitive materials.

It guarantees neat stitches on leather, without irregular holes or broken threads, and its precise point slides between layers without tearing them. You get professional finishes on your leather goods projects or leather accessories.

Use it carefully. Avoid ordinary fabrics especially and set the stitch length to 3-3.5 mm to limit tearing. A suitable needle prevents damage to the machine and material, ensuring work without surprises.

The Microtex needle for fine and delicate fabrics

TheMicrotex needle features an extra-fine point and a narrow body to penetrate tight fabrics. Its precise design prevents fiber tearing. It stands out by its ability to sew the most delicate materials without visible damage, guaranteeing regular stitches.

It excels on silk, voile, organza, muslin, and taffeta. If you work with these materials, choose sizes 60 to 80/12. Each size corresponds to thespecific fabric thickness, ensuring smooth passage without unwanted marks.

Its sharp point ensures clean and even stitches on fine fabrics. Thanks to this point, visible holes or broken threads are avoided. The stitching remains discreet, preserving the fabric's integrity while maintaining optimal strength.

On silk, the Microtex outperforms the universal needle. Its fine point passes through fibers without pushing them aside. You avoid pulled threads or snags, unlike the standard needle which damages sensitive materials.

The embroidery needle for decorative threads

The enlarged eye of the embroidery needle accommodates thick or multiple threads, and its polished surface reduces friction to avoid damaging the fibers. This specific opening facilitates threading of threads metallic, novelty, or embroidery, adapting its size to special materials.

Decorative threads like shiny rayon or matte cotton fit perfectly with this needle. Classic threads are less suitable, especially in embroidery. The large eye accepts thick threads (Nm 40) via 100-110 needles, while standard threads (Nm 100) use size 90.

This needle favors complex patterns and decorative topstitching, especially with metallic threads. Its slightly rounded tip glides without tearing the fabric. Sizes 60 to 110 cover projects with variable precision.

Set the thread tension between 2 and 6 for optimal hold and, if the bobbin thread appears on the right side, adjust it. Test by lifting the bobbin by its thread: it must descend smoothly.

Change the needle every 8 to 10 hours of sewing and never force the fabric with the presser foot lowered. A suitable needle prevents breakage, especially on thick fabrics requiring precise sizes.

The Topstitch needle for decorative topstitching

The Topstitch needle is distinguished by its elongated eye (2 mm) and slightly rounded tip. Designed for decorative topstitching, it allows the use of thick or multiple threads. Its robust structure ensures smooth passage even on thick fabrics or multidirectional projects.

It is used for quilting, patchwork, or decorative effects with metallic threads. A rated version lasts up to 80 hours of sewing. This needle reduces breakage and skipped stitches while protecting the fabric, ideal for clean and durable finishes.

Understanding which needle suits each fabric changes everything: it’s the key to a clean and precise stitch. By wisely choosing your universal, Jersey, Jean, or Microtex needles, you optimize every project.

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