How to choose the right needle for your sewing machine?

How do you choose the right needle for your sewing machine?

Immerse yourself in the fascinating world of sewing machine needles with this comprehensive guide, designed to help you choose the right needle according to the fabric, the project, and the desired result. Whether you are a beginner, an experienced seamster, or simply curious, understanding the function of sewing machine needles is essential for achieving precise finishes and avoiding problems while sewing. Each fabric type requires a suitable needle: this is often an overlooked detail, yet it is crucial.

Contrary to what you might think, simply choosing a “universal” needle for all your projects is not enough. Choosing sewing machine needles depends on two decisive criteria: thickness and fabric type. This helps you avoid many problems, such as a broken needle, skipped stitches, or damaged fabrics.

That is why we have provided you with a clear summary table to help you determine which needle to use for each fabric: silk, denim, jersey, fine cotton, organza, stretch fabric, thick fabric, and more. This table allows you to quickly identify the needle type, its size, and the corresponding color code, particularly for brands such as Schmetz, Bohin, and Singer. This visual guide is ideal for helping you make your choices, and you can even download it as a PDF to always have it close at hand.

How do you choose the right needle for each fabric?

The needle size corresponds to the diameter of its shaft, expressed in hundredths of a millimeter (generally from 60 to 110). The thicker the fabric, the more you should choose a larger-size needle to prevent it from breaking. Conversely, for fine fabrics such as silk or viscose, choose a fine point to avoid damaging the fabric. For example, a Microtex needle is ideal for very fine or delicate fabrics. For stretch fabrics, a stretch needle is recommended because it has a slightly rounded point that slips between the stitches.

Would you like to hem a T-shirt? Choose double stretch sewing machine needles for a professional finish. Do you have a circular knitting project or a hand-sewing project? Specific needles such as knitting needles or double-pointed needles will be more suitable.

Which sewing machine needle should you choose?

Sewing machine needles generally have a flat shank that slides easily under the presser foot. They are compatible with most domestic sewing machines, but be sure to check the system (for example, 130/705 H for domestic machines). If you work with an industrial machine, there are also needles specifically designed for this type of equipment.

Some universal needles are suitable for standard fabrics, but for optimal results, it is better to choose a special needle according to your sewing project. For example, a jeans needle for denim fabrics, an embroidery needle for delicate threads, or a ballpoint needle for sewing knitted fabrics.

How do you assess fabric thickness?

The fabric thickness is a decisive factor when choosing a needle. Never use a needle that is too fine on thick fabric, as this may cause breakage or uneven stitches. Conversely, a needle that is too thick on lightweight fabric may leave visible holes. Our chart will help you quickly assess the fabric thickness and choose the sewing machine needle that will best suit your project.

What advice do you have for choosing a needle for sewing?

Before starting a project, ask yourself the right questions: What fabric will I use? What result do I want to achieve? Is it a stretchy, lightweight, or heavy fabric? These factors guide you toward choosing a universal needle, stretch, microtex, jeans, etc. Also remember to change your needle regularly: a blunt needle can damage the fabric, cause thread tension problems, or simply stop piercing properly. Whether you work with Juki machines or other brands, using a new needle for each project is highly recommended. A new needle for each project is highly recommended!

How can you avoid sewing problems?

Many problems, such as skipped stitches, tangled threads, and broken needles, can easily be caused by an unsuitable needle. Using a blunt needle, an incorrect point type, or an inappropriate size can ruin your sewing. Follow our tips, consult our reference chart, and do not hesitate to consult your sewing machine manual to learn the manufacturer's recommendations.

Which needle brands do you recommend?

Among the most reliable and well-known brands, you will find Schmetz, one of the best brands available in our shop. Each brand offers a variety of ranges suited to every fabric and every type of sewing. You can easily find the equivalent of the Singer or Schmetz size if you are unsure, thanks to our guide.

How do you change and install the needle correctly on the machine?

Changing a machine needle is simple, but requires a little precision. Remember to switch off the machine, then loosen the screw holding the needle. Install the new needle with its flat side facing the back, until it is fully inserted. Whether you use a Juki lockstitch machine or another type of machine, check that it is straight and firmly secured before resuming sewing. This is one of the best practices for ensuring quality work and preventing incidents.

As you will have understood, choosing this item is not insignificant. It affects the quality of your work, the longevity of your machine and your enjoyment of sewing. With our advice, our summary table and our product guides, you are ready to work with all types of fabric with complete peace of mind.

Summary table of needles to use for each fabric

Fabric type	Needle to use	Point	Size
Antibacterial	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	60 to 85
Calico	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	60 to 100
Canvas	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	70 to 100
Cotton	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	60 to 85
Liberty-style Swiss cotton	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	60 to 85
Lace	Individually suitable needle		70 to 90
Double gauze	Jersey needle	Rounded	65 to 90
Terry cloth	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	80 to 90
French Terry	Jersey needle	Rounded	80 to 90
Faux fur	Standard needle (universal)	Rounded	80 to 100
jeans	Jeans needle (universal)	very fine	85 to 100
Jersey	Jersey needle	Rounded	70 to 90
Cotton jersey	Jersey needle	Rounded	70 to 90
Cotton jersey lined with minky	Jersey needle	Rounded	70 to 90
Jogging	Stretch needle	Medium ballpoint	65 to 90
Wool	Standard needle (universal)	Rounded	70 to 100
linen	Standard needle (universal)	Rounded	65 to 85
Viscose linen	Standard needle (universal)	Rounded	65 to 85
Lycra	Jersey needle	Rounded	70 to 90
Microfiber	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	80 to 100
Minky	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	80 to 100
Honeycomb	Stretch needle	Medium ballpoint	65 to 85
Plumetis	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	60 to 80
Fleece	Standard needle (universal)	Rounded	80 to 100
Polyester	Standard needle (universal)	Rounded	60 to 85
Poplin	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	60 to 85
Satin	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	60 to 100
Faux leather	Leather needle	Triangular	60 to 75
Tartan	Standard needle (universal)	Rounded	70 to 85
Burlap	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	60 to 80
Tulle	Jersey needle	Rounded	60 to 80
Gingham	Standard needle (universal)	Normal	60 to 85
Viscose	Standard needle (universal)	Rounded	70 to 80
Voile	Standard needle (universal)	Rounded	60 to 75

Sewing machine needles are suitable for all machine brands, including Juki sewing machine models. You will find all our haberdashery products available on our website. Happy sewing!