How to Sew a Set-in Collar?

The separate collar stand is a key element of shirts and provides an elegant and structured finish. It consists of several distinct pieces, including a collar fall and a collar stand, which are assembled to form a harmonious and rigid set. This detailed guide will accompany you step by step to successfully make a separate collar stand with precision.

What pieces are needed for a separate collar stand?

To make a shirt collar with a separate collar stand, you will need the following elements:

• A collar fall (cut twice: top and bottom).
• A collar stand (cut twice: inside and outside).
• A front and a back of a shirt, to be assembled at the shoulders.
• A button placket, according to the chosen pattern.
• Fusible interfacing to reinforce certain parts of the collar.

How to prepare and assemble the collar fall?

Prepare the collar fall pieces

• Fuse the collar fall to the piece underneath as well as the inner collar stand to give them more stiffness.

• Pin the two collar falls, right sides together, and assemble them using the classic method.

• Trim the seam allowances to about 5 mm and clip the corners for a clean finish.

Turn and topstitch the collar fall

• Turn the collar right side out and gently roll the seam between your fingers to flatten it. The underside of the collar should remain invisible.
• Topstitch at the edge of the collar fall to stabilize the collar shape.
• Pre-shape the future seam allowance at the bottom of the inner collar stand with an iron.
  

How to assemble the collar fall and the collar stand?

Position and attach the collar stand

• Pin the collar stands, right sides together, inserting the collar fall between the two pieces.
  
• Assemble the inner collar stand (fusible side) facing you and stitch, starting and ending with a backstitch at the pre-formed fold (seam allowance).
  
• Check that the points of the collar fall are symmetrical before continuing. If not, adjust by slightly undoing the seam.

Turn and reinforce the collar stand

• Trim the seam allowance and clip the curves to avoid any bulk.
  
• Turn the collar stand right side out and shape it with an iron.
  

• Topstitch 2 mm from the edge to secure everything and ensure good durability over time.

How to attach the collar to the shirt?

Position the collar stand on the neckline

• Pin the outer collar stand to the neckline, right sides together, carefully matching the notches.

• Sew with a straight stitch of 2.5 mm starting at the tightening tab.

• Trim the seam allowance and clip the curves for better flexibility.

Attach and finalize the collar stand

• Press the seam allowance against the inside of the outer collar stand and iron.

• Adjust the seam allowances at the button plackets to avoid unsightly bulk. 

How to ensure a clean and durable finish?

Attaching the inner collar stand

• Fold back the inner collar stand and pin carefully for perfect alignment.

• Iron to properly shape the whole and check the collar’s regularity.
• Attach the inner collar stand with a hand slip stitch for a discreet finish. 

Final touches and a surprise ending

• Add a topstitch at the collar stand to ensure better hold and a clean finish.
• Start and finish this topstitching at the collar ends for a uniform finish.
• Do a final ironing to definitively shape the collar.  

CONCLUSION

Making a collar with a separate collar stand requires precision and good preparation of the pieces. By following these steps carefully, you will achieve a structured, aesthetic collar perfectly integrated into your shirt. With good ironing and neat topstitching, your collar will maintain its shape and elegance over time!