How to make a French seam?

The English seam is an ideal technique for achieving a clean and strong finish, especially on fine and sheer fabrics. It encloses the raw edges in a second seam, preventing fraying and ensuring a neat interior finish of the garment. However, this method is not recommended for thick fabrics or curved seams, as it can create too much bulk.

Understanding Seam Allowance Widths

The English seam requires a wider seam allowance than the classic seam. Here are the recommendations:

• First Seam: Allowance of 3 to 5 mm.
• Second Seam: Allowance between 7 and 10 mm.
• Total Seam Allowance Visible on the Wrong Side: Between 5 and 10 mm, depending on the project’s needs.
• Stitch Type: Straight stitch
• Stitch Length: 2 to 2.5
• Seam Stop: Backstitch

Steps to Make an English Seam

How to Position the Fabrics Correctly?

Place the two pieces of fabric wrong sides together. Pin along the raw edges to stabilize the assembly before sewing.

How to Sew the First Seam?

Sew a first line of stitching about 5 mm from the edge. Once sewn, iron to flatten the seam allowance well.

Open and Iron the Seam

Unfold the fabrics and press the seam open. This ironing is important to get a clean finish before the second stitch.

Fold the Fabrics and Iron

Fold the fabrics right sides together, enclosing the seam allowance inside. Iron carefully so the fabric stays flat and the edges do not stick out.

How to Sew the Second Seam

Pin and then sew a second line of stitching 7 to 10 mm from the edge. This new seam encloses the first and ensures a clean finish on the fabric’s wrong side.

How to Finish the Seam?

Iron one last time and choose the side to press the seam towards so it blends harmoniously with your project.

Conclusion

The English seam is an excellent method to give a neat and durable finish to your creations. Suitable for lightweight fabrics, it strengthens the seams while making them attractive on both sides. With good ironing and precise execution, you will achieve a flawless result!